Sunday, 4 May 2014

You got me in your clutch again...





Awesome.

Just before my van died I had booked it in for some work on the gearbox. Now I had the Freelander in need of a new clutch, I kept the booking but swapped cars.

So what the seller thought was the clutch master cylinder, "easy fix, it's on the bulkhead" turned out to be the slave cylinder, which is inside the clutch housing.

OK...

While it was in pieces I asked them to fit a new clutch at the same time, made sense so I don't need to worry about getting apart again too soon.

But in the time between buying and getting to the garage it developed a clicking noise on full lock. CV joint, or so I thought. Nope, driveshaft.

So add that to the list, the driveshaft had to e removed to access the clutch, so...Get that done at the same time and save a bit of labour.

Parts ordered and re booked for the work a week later.

On collection, I had a few notes on the bill, things to look at.

First, propshaft is missing a bolt. OK, they noticed it needs new support bearings so I'll get that done at the same time, and I think I'll need a new VCU (Viscous Coupling Unit) as I get a bit of wind up on full lock in reverse. Not too bad, but I'm thinking better safe than sorry because...

Second, swarf in the IRD (Intermediate Reduction Drive). Oh. That's not good, that could be a big, BIG bill to replace that. It seems these are usually knocked out due to a failing VCU, hence the plan to replace it.

Third, battery is loose in the tray. Yup, it's anther Freelander foible. The battery clamp bolt has a habit of corroding and then wont undo. Luckily for me, mine had failed open, and the clamp is still there, so I can get the battery out, and then the tray to fix. A job for this week I feel.

But back to today's efforts, the clutch is much, MUCH better. Light is not the word, and the bite is a few inches off the floor, which is always nice. And no more knocking around corners! It's funny, but after all the sticking plaster repairs on the van, getting this done and dusted feels good, I shouldn't have to revisit these areas for a while.

So, purchase price of £1500 and these repairs of £700. Current total £2200.

It may seem like I've bought a really bad car, and in truth, I have bought one with a few expensive problems, but the engine, gearbox and bodywork are all sound. The three biggest money pit areas seem to be OK, so I'm not too concerned with the running gear repairs. They can be replaced as units, once a new unit is in place, no more worries. Try doing that with the engine, 'box or body for similar expense, not going to happen.

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